One of the many alligators I saw |
I strike something with the paddle on my port side (left) and
feel a quick jerk. Out of the corner of my eye I see something dark rise
up and a splash. The boat rocks in the turbulence and I gasp. “Was
it an alligator? Or a large fish, maybe a pike?” I’m pretty sure it was a
gator. I’ve seen many since the clouds began to break up late in the
morning, allowing for sun to penetrate and dry out the swamp. The water
isn’t very deep, but its dark tannic stain hides everything. Earlier
there was a large gator in the channel swimming in my direction, almost as if
it was playing chicken with me. I stopped and the gator, about twenty
feet in front of my kayak silently submerged. The water in the channel
was only three feet or so deep and it was eerie to flat over the top of a
gator. I held my breath for a moment, feeling as if I was on a warship
with an enemy submarine just below me. But nothing happened. In
this case, I wondered if I had accidentally hit a gator just under the water with
the blade of my paddle. I’ll never know for sure but for the next hour
every lily leaf that’s turned up and glistening in the sun appears as the eyes
of a gator. That said, I do see a dozen or so more gators as I paddle
around the western boundary of Chase Prairie. I am surprised to see so
many for this is the next to last day of 2014. It is winter, but it’s also
warm and the sun makes everything cheerful.
Looking toward Bluff Lake from the camping platform The day started out gray |
I had woken up at day break, dreaming about on a canoe trip on
the Genesee River in New York State. I was leading a youth group and the
other group leaders were people I knew from Utah and Michigan. We were
late getting started and I was worried that we might be on the river at night
if we didn’t get going soon as our destination was Letchworth State Park.
I am not sure how I was going to canoe through the waterfalls on the river in
the park, but the falls along the Genesee in Letchworth Gorge never entered my
mind in the dream, it’s only after I was awake that I wonder about the
foolishness of taking a youth group down that river with people from various
periods of my past.
It is still raining, but only lightly, not nearly as hard as it
has rained throughout the night. The sky is gray and fog hangs over the
water. I crawl out of the hammock and begin boiling water for coffee
(Folger’s coffee bags) and putt around a bit before fixing my instant oatmeal.
I pack up everything but the hammock, hoping that its fly will dry a little
before I stow it away. I spend a few minutes reading Robert Burns and
chuckle at the line:
“Ah, Tan! Ah, Tan! Thou’ll get thy
fairin!
In hell, they’ll roast
thee like a herrin!”
At Bluff Lake Platform Kayak ready and waiting on a paddler (me) |
By 9, the rain has
stopped but the tarp isn’t any drier, and with the humid it seems to be a vain
task, so I pack everything up, putting back on the wet clothes (that haven’t
dried any). Even though the temperature must be in the 60s, the damp
shirt is chilling. I pack up my boat and by 9:30 AM I am on the
water.
Swamp view |
The platform was on just off the south end of Bluff Lake and as
I paddled south, the channel becomes narrower and narrower and begins to move
westward, deeper into the heart of the swamp. It’s like paddling though
the middle of a Carolina Bay, the vegetation so thick that one couldn’t see
more than a few feet ahead. It’s mostly shrubs: a variety of bay, myrtles,
magnolia, hollies, palm trees, mixed in with small cypress and, when the ground
is a few inches above water, an occasional pine. I see evidence of the
Mormon missionaries’ work as the brush has been cut back to allow for a tunnel
of vegetation through which I paddle. However, I find myself feasting on
a second breakfast of silk webs spun overnight by spiders that cling to my face
and also realize that my double-ended paddle is a liability as the blade out of
the water is catching on the branches that cover the waterway. I’d
brought along a canoe paddle for this, as I had been told it might be a problem
plus it is always good to have a second paddle, but instead of pulling it out
and stowing my kayak paddle, I just break my paddle in half and stow one half
into the kayak and paddle with the other, switching sides constantly (the J
stroke which is used in canoes doesn’t work well in this situation).
floating mud bogs |
After paddling a mile through a rather deep channel with
overhanging vegetation, I enter an area where mud floats on top of the water
and I have to paddle hard to push the boat through it. This floating mud slows
me down and my paddle appears to be stirring a chocolate cake batter. I
fight through this for maybe an hour. Some of this area has been burned
in the past few years. I see a cypress that is maybe six inches thick
that burned but new sprouts are growing and some are already fifteen or twenty
feet tall. I struggle for maybe an hour through this section, covering
only a mile according to the markers. As I come to the end of this
section, the vegetation thins out as I enter Territorial Prairie.
Paddling through chocolate cake batter |
a more open canal with lots of floating bogs |
After a few more miles of paddling, I feel the need to rid
myself of coffee and to stretch my body as my legs are cramping in the
kayak. Solid ground is not available but
I paddle up into a prairie area where the water is about a foot deep and push
my boat between two trees. Holding onto
the trees, I am able to stand and stretch as well as provide some “over the
side” relief to my bladder. I also pull out my DSLR camera as the clouds
are breaking apart and I am pretty sure we’re done with the rain for the day
and snap a few photos before paddling on.
Between Territory and Chase Prairie |
Between Territory and Chase Prairie |
Some of this area appears to have burned during the huge fires
of 2007 or 2011 and in many places there are standing cypress that had died
(some of which have sprouted new growth) along with the stalks of dead pines slowly
rotting. As I come toward the end of the
prairie, I notice more and more hammocks (high ground, but here high is relative)
with pines that must have been large enough to have survived the fires. At the end of the prairie, the path tightens
back into another tight channel, but it is not nearly as tight as it was
between Territory Prairie and Bluff Lake.
In these tight sections, I notice the water is moving, toward the Suwanee
River which drains much of the swamp.
I had noticed this earlier in the morning, too. It’s not much flow, but it gives hope that I
am going in the right direction and am being helped a bit.
After a couple of miles, the water opens up as I enter Chase
Prairie. The sun is now peeking through clouds and it is
warm and I began to see more and more alligators. Some remain on top, but most submerge as I
pass by. Although I am back in a prairie with lots of
brush and some pitcher plants hanging on from last summer, I can tell that to
the north (which is Floyd’s Island_, there are huge trees, mostly pine but some
cypress and other hardwoods. The trail
follows the north edge of the prairie. I stop up on a floating mud island, pulling
the boat up on it in order to hold it still and fix and eat lunch while sitting
in the boat. Afterwards, I use my paddle
to help me stand without tipping the boat and stretch my legs before paddling
on.
Trail to Floyds Island |
After a little over a mile after I entered Chase Prairie, I come
to the waterway to Floyds Island. I’ve
been told that this hasn’t been cleared since the fires and it would be nearly
impossible to paddle to the island. I
paddle up a ways and see that there are many logs over the stream, so I turn
south and follow a secondary path that swings closer to the edge of the watery prairie
in which I have been told there are a lot of alligator holes. Sure enough, I see numerous gators including
the encounter I described earlier.
As I paddle south along the western boundary of Chase Prairie, I
spot four sandhill cranes to the southwest.
The wind is also coming from that direction and is pretty strong, which
should cover my scent and sound. I
quietly paddle pass them until I am at a point where I am directly behind
them.
Sandhill Cranes |
cranes taking flight |
Alligator across from my camping spot |
Heading south, I spot what I think is the canal. I am so glad to be nearing my camping spot
that I paddle fast upstream but realize, after a while, that this canal didn’t
go very far (maybe a mile) and I have to back track. I do
and a half mile later enter the Suwanee Canal and turn westward and in a few
minutes I’m at the shelter. It is a 3:30
and I’ve been on the river for six hours without getting out of my kayak. This platform is up on the berm of the canal
(which is only 18 or so inches above the water). I pull up my boat and set up camp. The whole time, an alligator is sitting on the
far bank, all but the tip of tail out of the water (it seems gators often leave
a tip of their tail in water as if to remind them where to find their natural
habitat). Afterwards, I walk along the
canal and collect wood for a fire.
Because of the high ground, this is one of the few places in the refuge
one can have a fire. Then I write in my
journal and start cooking dinner, which I do while reading Burns. Since no one is around, I read out loud and
obviously annoying the gator across the canal as it slides back into the water. Frogs and insects are singing and occasionally
a fish jumps in the canal.
Set up for the night |
I eat dinner by a fire, enjoy the last of the wine (I had enough
for a “glass” each night). A bit after
dark I go to bed. The past few weeks had
taken their toil and I need sleep and this will be my last night out. I savor the time asleep. The wind is up and it is cooling off more
than the previous night. I get a sense
that the weather is changing again.
An ibis in Chase Prairie |
I am now planning a two night trip in the Okefenokee in late March, starting from the Fargo side and exploring Floyds Island and prairie. Anyone want to join me?