Day 3 in the Quetico: A Long Haul

This is my third post on a canoe/fishing trip to the Quetico, in Western Ontario. Quetico Provincial Park is a large wilderness area just north of the Minnesota boundary waters. The land was given to Ontario in the 1930s, after it having been logged by the Quebec Timber Company (from which it gets its name). Today, it’s a peaceful refuge, where one must explore on their own power, without the distractions of outboard motors. Click here for my post on getting to the Quetico and here for my post on Day 2.

I felt the first drop when I started to take down the tarp. By the time it was folded and packed away, it was a steady drizzle and a band of heavy rain could be seen approaching across the lake. We had a long day of paddling with six portages and we were going to be wet. Everyone pulled on rain gear and we finish packing up and loading the boats. By the time we were ready to head out, the rain is steady. Without wind and with moderate temperatures, I decide that I might as well get wet without my rain suit than to sweat inside it. I stowed it away and pushed off.

I’d hoped things were going to clear. The sky was gray when I woke up early in the morning, but it was dry. I went out on a rock overlooking the westward falls, where I was treated to a light breeze, enough to keep the mosquitoes at bay. I caught up my journal and did some ready before heading back to camp where everyone else was getting up. I put on water for coffee and oatmeal and began to pack up my gear.

Our first stop of the morning was back at Curtain Falls, where we’d had such good luck the day before fishing. This time, instead of heading to the northshore, we go to the south, the Minnesota side, where there is a much better trail to the top of the falls. It’s a 139 rod portage, or roughly a 1/3 of a mile and with two steep climbs that’s slippery in the rain. I carry the boat over and then go back for the canoe. At the top of the falls, we load back up and paddle northeast, across Crooked Lake. The wind has picked up and is coming out of the northwest. For the first time, I put on my life jacket, more for warmth than floatation. It’s a long paddle across open water, with waves slapping against the side of the boat. We maintain a steady rythym, digging our paddles deep into the water. These canoes track well and in probably 20 minutes, we’ve crossed the lake and begin the scout for our portage.

Our next portage is shorter, just 62 rods, taking us from Crooked to Roland Lake. Waiting for the other two boats to get into the water, I begin to photograph lotus water lilies that are wet with drops of rain. Roland Lake is long with several bottlenecks, some of which contains falls and requires portaging. We stop for lunch after the third short portage. The rain has finally stopped. I break out my cheese, crackers, peanut butter, some nuts and a package of lemonade to add to a bottle of treated water. While snacking, we meet a couple heading south, doing the same trip we’re doing but from a different direction. They suggest a campsite for us in Darky Lake and give us some tips for catching fish there. They’d caught a couple nice lake trout and had one the evening before for dinner, but they also have a small depth finder with them. Unfortunately, we learn that no one has been catching walleyes. We share with them our fishing experience at Curtain and Rebecca Falls.

Early in the afternoon, after another portage, we arrive in the Siobam River. The sun has broken through. In the bright light, we can see the bottom of the river, filled with rocks and logs. This is supposed to be a fine smallmouth bass fishing spot and I’m anxious to fish, but most are wanting to forgo fishing and move on to make sure we get to the campsite on Darky Lake before someone else. We paddle down the river and onto Argo Lake, hugging the north shore. Argo is beautiful and we pass two nice campsites, one at the top of the 120 rod portage into Darky Lake. The trail to Darky is wide, yet steep as it drops several hundred feet. TM and I get to Darky first and we head on ahead, passing ancient pictographs on the large rock cliffs on the east side.

We reach camp, set up our bivy tents and then get ready for a swim and bath (with biodegradable soap) in the lake. The water right off shore is deep and pleasant. Before going in, I notice a bloodsucker has attached itself on the main blood vein going into my big toe. He’d hit pay dirt, for when I pull him off, blood flows freely and it takes me a minute to stop the bleeding. I’d probably picked him up in the mud at the bottom of the portage into Darky Lake.

After the swim, we enjoy a shot of brandy and a nice meal of chicken and stuffing, rice pilaf and pudding. We hadn’t done any fishing, so there was no fish to add to the meal. Afterwards, as the sun dropped behind the clouds on the western horizon, TM and I go out and catch a couple of smallmouths. We head in before dark and soon everyone is hitting the sack.

Darky Lake in the evening.