At 10:30 AM, we’d driven over to the Bill Hall trailhead and everyone is ready. In addition to what’s in our packs, we all start out with an extra gallon jug of water. Those eight pounds will be stashed along the way so that we’ll have enough water to make the long dry climb up out of the canyon. I’m able to get the gallon jug in my pack along with three plastic quart jars for water and a pint for whiskey. Since we’re hiking down, I only fill two of my water bottles. By mid-afternoon, I’ll realize that this was a mistake.
The trail runs along the rim for a mile or so before dropping off and then climbing back up to Monument Point. From Monument Point, at 7200 feet, the trail drops quickly through Kaibab and Turweep rock formations. At one point, we shed our packs and lowered them 30 feet or so by rope, freeing us to climb down through a path that twists through the rock. The trail keeps dropping till it joins the Thunder River Trail. By this point, we've lost over 1800 feet. Taking this trail, we head south along the Esplanade, a rather wide bench with small changes in elevation. The trail is mostly over slick rock and marked with
The climb down from the Esplanade to
The trail continues south for a ways, and then turns east where it intersects the trail to Deer Creek. There is no shade. There are no trees, only small bushes and cactus. The temperature is now well into the nineties and I am lightheaded for the hiking and lack of water. It’s about two and a half miles from when we enter the valley to the falls, the next water source. To make matters worse, as we get closer to the rim and our next steep descent, we can hear water gushing. At the rim, the trail goes down steep switchbacks and we can see just to our north,
I quickly drink my last few ounces, knowing that at the bottom I can drink till I’m content. I find some relief in that the trail is on the west side of the canyon into which we’re descending and soon, we’re in the shade, away from the sun’s rays.
At the bottom of
By 6 PM, we’re setting up camp under the cottonwoods on a shelf high above the east side of the creek. Everyone is tried. Darkness descends quickly in the canyon. We quickly fix dinner. Bill, who’d shown us fossils of early life found near the falls (800 feet higher than we are here), notes how the rocks here are void of fossils and were formed before life began on earth. It’s amazing to think how old these rocks are. After eating dinner and a shot of whiskey, I’m ready for bed. Sleep comes easy with the sound of rushing water in the background.
I wake up early the next morning to the clucking sound of a turkey walking through camp. I have thoughts of having a Thanksgiving dinner, with this pesky domesticated wild turkey serving as the centerpiece for a feast. The sun’s rays are barely hitting the ridge and I realize it’ll be a long time before it gets to us. I roll out of bed and fire up my stove, heating water for coffee and oatmeal while packing up my gear. Our plans are to go to the river and camp, but Bill and Mark, whose feet are blistered, don’t want to walk any more than required. Phil, Craig and I decide we’ll go on to the river and camp, but we scratch the plan to cross over to Deer Creek, deciding instead to camp at where Tepeats enters the Colorado and then hike back out the same way we descended into the canyon.
The hike along the creek is relatively easy as the trail snakes a cross the creek a couple of times. The river is wide and fast, cold and beautiful. High above the river the banks are lined with rocks and boulders of various shapes, sizes and colors, making it difficult to navigate as some of them are harder to see. Next to the river, there is a narrow sandy beach. There are plenty of barrel cactus and spiny mesquite bushes. By the time we arrive, the sun is up and it’s hot. We pick out a campsite just a ways downstream from the creek and set up a tarp for shade. The only poles we have are our hiking ones, so the tarp isn’t very high, but later in the afternoon when the temperature climbs above hundred, it’s a nice place to nap and read.
Shortly after we arrive, a rafting party stops at the mouth of the creek and sets up camp. We walk down to check out the trespassers, worrying that they might spoil the neighborhood, but they’re all cool and are hauling a boatload of beer that’s chilled in the river. The group is mostly made up of river guides, taking their last trip of the season. They offer us each a beer, which does wonders to win our affection. As they’re pulling the beer bag out of the river, they tell us to help ourselves anytime we want a can. We realize that we’ve hit the jackpot, a floating bar along the
I wake up the next morning just as the first rays of the sun are striking the rim of the canyon. The light sky stands in contrast to the dark walls of the canyon that are still shaded from the sun. I’m stiff. All night my stomach has been in knots. Lying under the screen of my bivy tent, l’d wake and explore the stars and watch meteors speed across the sky before falling back to sleep. All I can really think about is our hike out and hoping that our water cache is safe. In the morning, I think of the seven mile hike ahead, with the 3500 feet elevation gain which mostly comes in the two steep pitches and don’t want to get up from bed. Nonetheless, we make a quick morning of it, hoping to get as many miles done as possible before the day gets too hot. Packed up, we head back up Tapeats Creek.
When we pass our first campsite, we realize Bill and Mark have gone on ahead. We continue on up
It’s my night for dinner and I’ve planned Mexican. I borrow pots from everyone and as the sun begins dropping in the west, I set out to make rice, using boil in a bag pouches. I have dried re-fried beans to which I add boiling water. I make two instant cheese cakes (which only kind of sets up because of the lack of refrigeration (I normally would set it in a spring or cold stream, but there is no water on the Esplanade). I lay everything out, tortillas, beans, rice, cheese, diced onions and an avocado that I’ve hauled along, along with packages of salsa that I’d accumulated from Taco Bells. We feast on burritos, drinking large quantities of water to rehydrate ourselves. Afterwards, we watch a beautiful sunset. The smoke from control burns makes the sun especially beautiful. After sunset, we are treated to the setting of a new moon. As the lunar sliver approaches the horizon it, too, turns brilliantly red.
That night, I’m still sore when I go to bed, but feel good. For a long time, I lay looking at the skies and stars. Again, I see numerous meteors. I fall asleep and dream of the backyard that I am landscaping at home. In my dream, my daughter is playing on grass and I’m setting on the new patio that planned to build when I get back. But then, in another dream, I am with
The climb out, over the third steep pitch on the trail, is tough but doable. There is that one part where we lowered our packs. Going up, we kept our packs on, but we have to pull ourselves up by hands. The final mile is easy as we walked along the rim and look down at where we had been. Phil had left some beers in a cooler with a block of ice in the back of his truck. The ice had melted, but the beers are still a little cool. There was enough to go around to the six of us (Becky had hiked out with us). We drink the beer, toasting each other and talk for a few minutes. Then we got into our vehicles and head in different directions. Phil and I stop to eat Mexican in Kanab and were back in
Photo note: The smoke made many of the photos hazy. I used regular film instead of slides and these photos are copies of prints (which does not yield the best quality photos). The photo below, of all five of us, was taken on our last morning in the canyon.
I'm on the right.